For those who make the treacherous 3- to 4-hour journey on the washboard road from Big Pine over the pass and into the Saline Valley, this bizarre spot and its welcoming community often become a sanctuary.
military's R-2508 Special Use Airspace Complex. There are also roving burros, an unpaved airstrip and the occasional low-flying jet, as the area is part of the U.S. Each level has multiple soaking pools with names like the dragon pool, volcano pool and wizard pool (which is named for the man who lived at the site the longest and served as a caretaker until he died). The main attraction is the three-tiered system of thermal springs strung along a 3-mile stretch of road in the valley. Many max that out, despite the fact that weather conditions can be harsh and there are no services whatsoever. There is no fee for camping or day use, but under the Park Service, guests may only stay at the springs for 30 days in any given year. The area was transferred to Park Service control under the California Desert Protection Act in 1994, and although public nudity is still common at the springs, lewd behavior is now prohibited, according to Death Valley’s website. “Now they make you wear a helmet and put your beer down. “You used to be able to get naked, with a six-shooter in one hand a can of beer in the other, and ride around the dunes on a motorcycle,” jokes Ganner, the old camp host. Charles Manson and his followers are said to have visited, and the place was apparently pretty wild. They also built makeshift dishwashing stations, showers and latrines and planted lawns and palm trees.
Back in the 1950s when the area was still under the control of the Bureau of Land Management, early settlers developed soaking tubs and art installations there. The springs are situated in the remote northwest corner of Death Valley National Park, 35 miles from the closest paved road. For those who are intrepid enough to find Saline Valley, it has often made this kind of impression.